Simulating Cell Work
For this tutorial I’m using PhotoShop and a sketch of the Dark Elf from “Record of Lodoss War”. I’m assumming you have at least a basic understanding of PhotoShop.
This tutorial cover my way of simulation cell work. I’m no expert in the field and there’s .
probably an easier way but I hope this will help someone get started. If you have any questions feel free
to e-mail me.
When you see this symbol ‘ * ‘ it’s just some observation I find usful .
1) Transfering the image. First start with a pencil sketch and import it to
PhotoShop. I use a scanner but other method work just as well (i.e. digital
camera). Resize the image to your preference. I usually use 1200 pixel width.
Any size is fine but give yourself at least a 640 pixel width to work with.
*The problem with scanned images is it’s usually “smugy” from all the dirt, excess graphites, figerprints, etc. Rather than spent all that time cleaning the image, I find it much easier and quicker to retrace the whole thing.
Scanned Pencil Sketch
2) Retracing the image. This is the hardest step so if you get pass this everything
will be easier. Retracing also gives the advantage of being able to paint under the lines (more on that later). Make sure the image is using RGB value. You can change it by going to IMAGE –> MODE –> RGB Value in the menu. Before retracing, I like to set up a few things to make it easier. Make sure the Layer Pallet is open and create a new layer. On the new layer, fill it with a dark color. I usually use dark blue. Now set the opacity lever to about 75 percent. It should look something like this:
Current Image Layers Setting
* The reason for the additional layer is to makes it easier to tell the differences between the scanned image versus the retraced one.
Create another Layer… as you can see I love layers :). Select the color black and
retrace the image using the Airbrush, Line tools or Stroking the selection. In any case use the smallest brush size or line width. The Airbrush is good for round edges (much easier with a tablet). The line tool, of course, is excellent for making stright lines. Stroking the seletion takes longer but usually gives the best result.
* You can create a selection by using the Lasso Tool or Pen Tool. If using the Pen Tool convert to a selection when done. You can do this by going to the Path Pallet and clinking on the “Load path as a selection” button (See Image below). When you have a selection, go to EDIT –>STROKE (I use width 1, the rest is in default setting) in the menu. The Pen Tool takes forever, but it’s also makes the best selection.. so use only when needed.
* An annoying problem with selections is it has to be close. That means even if you make an open line
with the Pen Tool, it will be close when converted to a selection. A quick fix is to erase the extra line after Stroking.
* While retracing, it helps to turn the background layer (the one with the scanned image) on and off to see the results.
When done delete or turn off the background layer in the Layer Pallet. On the second layer (the one with the dark blue), fill it with white and set the Opacity to 100 percent. The result should look something like this:
* If you haven’t done so already it helps to keep things organized by naming the layer. I renamed Layer 1 to Background and Layer 2 to Outline. I didn’t retrace the Dark Elf’s lips because I didn’t want a black outline when done.
Retraced Image Layers Setting
3) Let’s color! Now that we have a Background layer (all white) and an Outline layer (retraced lines) we will add colors between these layer. The reason for this is that when colors are added it won’t harm the Outline layer. Isn’t that cool?
Have the Background layer selected and create another layer. Using diffuse (normal) colors, start painting on the new layer. Make sure your painting solid colors. I do this by using the PaintBrush Tool.
* Remember to paint between the line… The line is your friend :P.
* I like to have a separated layer for every color. Howerver this can get real memory intensive … so this might not be for you. The advantages is that you can go back and tweak with the color. For Example: Suppose I want to make the skin lighter. It’ll take some work to repaint it in with a lighter color. But with Layer you can adjust the brightness for a darker or lighter color. When done tweaking, merge all except the Outline and Background layer.
The result should look something like this:
Diffuse Color Added Layers setings
4) Adding Shadows. This step is just like the previous step. The only differences is the addition of darker colors. Now that the diffuse color is done we need to add a shadow layer. This layer needs to be between the Outline and Diffuse Color layer. With the Diffuse Color layer selected, create another layer. Now use the Eyedropper Tool, select one of the diffuse color. In the Color pallet, choose a value that more toward black (i.e. If blue, choose dark blue). Again I use the Painbrush Tool to color in the shadows.
* Same as diffuse color, I like to have a separate layer for each color. Merge all shadow color when done.
5) Highlights. Same as above, only with lighter color. After finishing step 4 and 5, it should be something like this:
Shadows and Highlighs Added Layers Setting
6) Finishing Up. Now it’s time to do some tweaking and adding the final details. This basically means going back to all the layer and making any changes necesary. If you want to add a background it should be the last layer. For this project I just added a simple gradient fill in th Background layer… I got lazy OK! As a final touch I added little glows using the Airbrush tool around the Gold color areas.
